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Changes at Bingham Lake…. EFFECTIVE SEPTEMBER 2, 2008
Zebra mussels are small barnacle-like mollusks with dark and light colored
stripes. They smother aquatic organisms, such as crayfish and native clams and
out compete for food and aquatic habitat. Zebra mussels damage equipment by
attaching to boat motors or hard surfaces and clog water treatment facilities.
The District’s Board of Directors has adopted a resolution prohibiting all
activities which might pose a threat of causing zebra and/or quagga mussel
infestation in Bingham Lake.
Effective September 2, 2008 boating of all types, use of float tubes, and
wading in the lake (with or without waders) is prohibited.
Fishing is still permitted from the shore and from the dock. Zebra and Quagga
mussels have been detected in Pueblo Reservoir and Lake Granby. The Board will
continue to monitor the spread of the Mussels in the State and will modify these
changes in the management of the Lake events unfold. Thank you in advance for
your cooperation.
Additional information is available at:
Colorado Division of Wildlife (Mussels)
100th
Meridian (Mussels)
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Invitation To Visit Facilities
The District would like to extend an
invitation to visit facilities operated by the District for Water
Treatment, Water Distribution, Wastewater Collection, Wastewater
Treatment and Reclamation. Interested parties, individuals, schools,
homeowner associations, etc., can contact our office at (303) 841-2797
to set up tour dates or obtain additional information. District
representatives are available to attend community gatherings for
informational presentations.
Topics of tours or presentations
can include:
- Current Water Treatment Methods
-
Distribution System Operations &
Maintenance
- Water Conservation Program
-
Wastewater Treatment & Water
Reclamation
- Wastewater Collection System
-
Biosolids Production &
Beneficial Reuse Program
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How can I identify a District employee in my neighborhood?
To help you identify
District employees when they are in your neighborhood or servicing an issue at
your home, please note that our employees will be driving a District truck
(clearly marked with the District logo) and wearing attire also sporting the
District logo. If you’re ever in doubt, please call the District office (303)
841-2797.
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Why has my water pressure been reduced, or
come to a complete halt?
In the
middle of the winter season and almost every year the District receives calls
from homeowners who have lost water service. The majority of frozen water lines
actually occur inside the house. Water service lines are buried in the earth
nearly 5’ down and rarely does the frost get that deep. However, if an outside
pipe does freeze, it most often occurs in a sprinkler system that has not been
properly winterized or in the water meter pit. Most water meters in the District
are installed in a meter pit located outside, near your property line. The
ground temperature at the bottom of the meter pit typically prevents the meter
from freezing. Also, the meter cover is designed to insulate the meter from the
surface temperature.
Back inside your home, the slightest chilly draft near plumbing
lines is capable of freezing the water line. Homeowners are encouraged to check
where their water service line enters the home and follow the piping. Small gaps
in the exterior woodwork just above the top of the foundation or basement wall
are the usual culprits. These gaps allow cold air from the outside to enter the
room. If the basement is finished then this cold air enters the wall. Properly
insulating the water line from the cold air and caulking seams or holes near the
piping greatly improves your chances of having uninterrupted water service in
cold weather.
If you are away on vacation or not occupying your home during the
winter, think about having someone check your home and running the water
occasionally. You might also consider turning your water off while you are away
– see article below on master shutoff valves. It’s after
the freeze that split or broken pipes thaw out and extensive damage to your home
can occur.
In the event you have no water, please call the District at (303)
841-2797, ext. 0 (after hours dial ext 299 to connect to our answering service).
A District Representative will come to your house and check to see if there is
water to the meter. If they determine that water does flow through the meter,
you may need to call a plumber or search out the problem on your own.
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Where is my Master Shutoff Valve?
If a
water pipe inside your house freezes and begins to leak, would you know what to
do? Would your family? Such nightmares do happen, but damage can be minimized if
you’re prepared. It’s a great idea to find and share with all members of your
household the location of the master shutoff valve. The valve is usually located
inside your home where your water line enters from the meter pit.
Why would you want to shut off this valve? If a pipe breaks inside
your house, this valve will turn off all water entering your home. Think about
marking it with a tag or paint it a bright color for quick reference. Being
prepared and taking quick action could help save your home and family treasures.
If you have difficulty finding it, please give us a call at (303) 841-2797 and
we will try to assist you.
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Why is the District flushing good water down the drain?
Have you ever seen
the “flushing” signs in your neighborhood and questioned what that is all about?
Ever wondered why we’re sending gallons and gallons of water down the drain? Or,
where that water is going? Over the winter, mineral deposits that occur
naturally in the water build up inside the water main due to lower water usage.
Every spring the District “clears” the water mains that serve your home of such
build-up by opening fire hydrants. The surge of water delivered out the hydrant
is able to pickup the deposits and remove them from the water supply. While this
may seem wasteful, our high water quality is maintained: taste is improved, odor
is reduced and color is clearer. At the same time, fire hydrants are checked for
operation and visibility to ensure that should there be a fire, they are
operational and easy to find.
It takes nearly 2 months to complete the flushing cycle throughout
the District! The Staff will begin flushing the water in late March; watch for
signs in your neighborhood.
If you have any questions, just give us a call.
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Turf Management
Before, During, and
Following Drought in Colorado
This is an excerpt from an article written by Dr. Tony
Koski, Extension Turf Specialist, Colorado State University
Cooperative Extension.
Precipitation, snow
pack, stream flow, and reservoir levels are significantly lower than
historic averages throughout Colorado and the Rocky Mountain region.
During normal precipitation years, landscape irrigation comprises 50%
or more of urban water use during the growing season in the Rocky
Mountain region. In anticipation of restrictions in turf irrigation
that may be imposed by water utilities, communities, and other
water-management entities, the following practices allow you to have a green lawn
and still reduce water consumption:
-
Make sure that the
irrigation system is operating properly.
-
Replace broken or
missing sprinkler heads.
-
Check that the spray
heads are turning properly.
-
Adjust heads so that
water is not thrown onto streets and driveways.
-
Check nozzles for
plugging.
-
Place shallow
containers (tuna or cat food cans, yogurt containers, etc.) around
the yard and measure output so that you know how long it takes to apply ¼ to ½
inch of water.
-
Place containers on
persistent dry spots to determine if poor sprinkler coverage is the
problem.
-
Water as
infrequently as possible, without causing undue stress to the lawn.
-
Most lawns should be
able to tolerate being irrigated every 3-5 days (or even longer).
-
Turn your irrigation
controller to the “Manual” position (from “Automatic”) and learn how
to operate it manually.
-
Don’t irrigate the
lawn on a set schedule (every 2 or 3 days); lawn water use can vary
greatly from one day to the next.
-
Irrigate when
footprints or mower wheel tracks become easily visible on the turf
and large areas of the lawn take on a
bluish-gray color.
-
Apply ¾ to 1 inch of
water, slowly enough that runoff and puddling does not occur;
cycling through irrigation stations or
moving your sprinkler around the yard while irrigating helps water
to soak more thoroughly and evenly into the lawn.
-
Don’t water again
until you see abundant signs of water stress (footprinting,
blue/gray coloration) appear in the
lawn.
-
Hand-watering small
or isolated dry spots can allow you to go another day without
watering the entire lawn.
-
Water between 9 PM
and 9 AM, when it is cooler and there is less wind.
-
Avoid heavy or
frequent nitrogen fertilization.
-
Lush, fast-growing
grass uses more water.
-
Grass that is lush
is more likely to be damaged if watering restrictions are imposed.
-
Set your mowing
height at 2 ½ to 3 inches (or as high as it can be set); don’t
remove more than 3/4 inch of grass at any
single mowing; use a sharp blade to reduce tearing of the grass
leaves.
- Be willing to
accept a less than perfect lawn; tolerate a few brown spots and
edges in the lawn.
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Saving
Water Indoors
- Don't put water down the drain when
there may be another use for it such as watering a plant or
garden.
- Repair dripping faucets by replacing
washers. If your faucet is dripping at the rate of one drop per
second, you can expect to waste 2,700 gallons per year.
- Check your toilet tank for leaks by
adding dye tablets to the tank. If toilet is leaking, color will
appear within 30 minutes in the bowl. Flush as soon as the test is
done, since the dye may stain the porcelain.
- Take shorter showers. Replace your
showerhead with an ultra-low-flow version.
- Use the minimum amount of water
needed for a bath by closing the drain first and filling the tub
only 1/3 full. Stopper the tub before turning on the water. Adding
hot water later can warm the initial burst of cold water.
- Don't let water run while shaving or
washing your face. Brush your teeth first while waiting for the
water to get hot, then wash or shave after filling the basin.
- Operate automatic dishwashers and
washing machines only when they are fully loaded and properly set
the water level to the size of load you are washing.
- Store drinking water in the
refrigerator rather then letting the tap run every time you want a
cool glass of water.
- Consider installing an instant water
heater on your kitchen sink so you don't have to let the water run
while it heats up.
- Insulate your water pipes. You'll
get hot water faster plus avoid wasting water while it heats up.
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Saving
Water Outdoors
- Don't overwater your lawn. As a
general rule, lawns only need watering every 3 to 4 days in the
summer and every 7 to 8 days in the late fall.
- Water lawns during the early morning
hours when temperatures and wind speed is the lowest.
- Don't water your driveway, sidewalk
or street. Position your sprinklers so that your water lands on
the lawn or shrubs.
- Regularly check sprinkler system and
timing devices to be sure they are operating properly.
- Skip a watering cycle if it has
rained. Add rain and moisture sensors to your automated sprinkler
system.
- Raise the lawn mower blade to at
least three inches. A higher lawn cut encourages grass roots to
grow deeper.
- Avoid overfertilizing your lawn. The
application of fertilizers increases the need for water.
- Mulch to retain moisture in the
soil. Mulching also helps to control weeds that compete with
plants for water.
- Plant native and/or drought tolerant
grasses, groundcovers, shrubs and trees. Once established, they do
not need to be watered as frequently.
- Do not hose down your driveway or
sidewalks. Use a broom to clean leaves and other debris from these
areas.
- Use hose washers between spigots and
water hoses to eliminate leaks.
PLEASE HELP US CONSERVE WATER by doing
just one thing each day that will save water. Don't
worry if the savings is minimal, every DROP counts!
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How “Hard” is my water?
What is Hardness?
These are some of the questions we answer
regularly. Hardness in drinking water is caused primarily by the
presence of two minerals; calcium and magnesium. “Soft” water on the
other hand has very little amounts of these minerals. A good way to
think about it is that making a lather or soapsuds is “hard” with hard
water and making a good lather with soft water is easy.
The average hardness of the water supplied by the Pinery Water &
Wastewater District is 160 mg/L. This is considered moderately hard
and is to be expected, given the geographic location of the Pinery
area. Hardness will not harm you and your District currently does not
treat for hardness.
Should you consider a home water treatment system? This is a personal
decision. These systems are not needed to make the water “safe”. In
fact, if not properly maintained, the systems actually may cause water
quality problems. However, some people do not like hard water. So if
you decide to install a treatment system, think about where to install
it inside your house. These systems can be installed on you faucet(s),
under your sink, just on your hot water heater or at the point of
entry into the house. A water softener can help eliminate hard water
spots on your dishes and glasses. Most softeners are regenerated with
salt. After the salt is used, it goes down the drain and into the
environment. To prevent unnecessary regenerations, set your softener
to regenerate after a selected amount of water has passed through it,
rather then using a timer. This prevents wasting salt and water by
regenerating too soon, producing a cost savings to you.
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Rain & Moisture
Sensors
Rain and moisture sensors are a great
water conservation tool for those with large lawns or landscaped
areas. Moisture sensors are installed in the ground and measure the
moisture received. When the desired amount of moisture in the soil has
been reached the sensor shuts off the sprinkler system until moisture
is again needed. The most commonly used moisture sensor is the
Mini-Click II. Rain sensors, on the other hand, are mounted on the
side of a house or building in a place exposed to direct rainfall.
These sensors conserve water by suspending irrigation during and after
a rainfall. The Rain Switch by TORO is the sensor most widely used by
professionals. Sensors can be purchased at most large hardware stores.
The moisture sensor retails for about $45.00 and the rain sensor for
about $35.00. If you choose to have a professional install your
sensor, expect to pay around $85.00 for installation.
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Your Water Meter
The water meter for your home is
usually located in a meter pit near the property line. The water meter
pit is a cylindrical vault buried in the ground with a cover and a lid
that houses the water meter. The meter lid is approximately one foot
in diameter and indicates "Water" on the cover. Once every
two months the meter reader reads the water meter so your usage can be
billed. The meter reader and maintenance personnel need to have ready
access to the meter cover and the water meter inside in the event
there is a need to shut off the meter. No sod or landscaping material
is allowed to cover the meter cover lid. We also request that no
shrubbery, rock gardens or trees be planted within 10 feet of the
meter so that the meter reader can easily access the water meter and
maintenance staff will not have to disturb the landscaping if there is
a leak at the meter pit. If you have existing shrubs or trees near the
meter pit consider relocating them before they mature. The District is
not responsible for replacing them in the event there is a leak at the
meter. The District maintains the waterline from the street to the
meter pit, while the homeowner is responsible from the meter pit to
the house. All homeowners should be aware of the location of their
water meter and the master shut off valve within the house in case
there is a leak. Steps in technology have even addressed water meters.
Most homes can now be read from a black disk located on the meter
cover or a post nearby with a "wand" carried by the meter
reader. This has allowed for more accurate readings and has reduced
the time it takes to read the meters. Future meters will be read
through radio technology.
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Where does our water
get used?
The American Water Works Association
Research Foundation recently completed a study of where water gets
used. They did a detailed analysis of 1,188 homes in 12 different
cities. The results of this study appear to match the experience of
our District. Here is what they found:
Inside water use:
- Toilets 26.7%
- Clothes Washers 21.7%
- Showers 16.8%
- Faucets 15.7%
- Leaks 13.7%
- Other 2.2%
- Baths 1.7%
- Dishwashers 1.4%
Outside Water use:
- Homes with in-ground sprinkler
systems use 35% more water than homes without a sprinkler system
- Homes with an automatic timer on
their sprinkler system use 47% more water
- Homes with a garden use 30% more
water outdoors than homes without a garden.
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Root Control
Tree roots are
rapidly becoming a problem encountered by many residents in the Pinery’s older
subdivisions. The trees we all love become our worst nightmare in a sewer line
with any minor imperfections. Current technology gives us several solutions for
this condition. Option one is to call a plumber every one to two years and have
the roots cut out. But, this will soon destroy your sewer lines. Option two is
dig up your sewer service and repair the problem. This can be very costly,
destroy landscaping and harm mature trees. Option three is a product called
RootX. This product kills roots in
the sewer line and prevents their re-growth for up to one year. You can purchase
similar products from your plumber, but DO NOT PURCHASE PRODUCTS THAT CONTAIN
COPPER SULFATE. The EPA has approved RootX
for use in all fifty states. RootX
will not harm your trees, only the roots that intrude into your sewer. RootX
can be purchased at the District office. Please call the office at (303)
841-2797 for additional information.
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Fats, Oils, and
Greases aren't just bad for your arteries and your waistline;
…..they're bad for sewers, too!
Sewer overflows and backups can cause health hazards, damage home
interiors, and threaten the environment. An increasingly common cause
of overflows is sewer pipes blocked by grease. Grease gets into the
sewer from household drains as well as from poorly maintained grease
traps in restaurants and other businesses.
Where does the
grease come from?
Most of us know grease as the byproduct
of cooking. Grease is found in such things as:
- Meat fats
- Lard
- Cooking oil
- Shortening
- Butter and margarine
- Food scraps
- Baking goods
- Sauces
- Dairy products
Too often, grease is washed into the
plumbing system, usually through the kitchen sink. Grease sticks to
the insides of sewer pipes (both on your property and in the streets).
Over time, the grease can build up and block the entire pipe.
Home garbage disposals do not keep grease out of the plumbing system.
These units only shred solid material into smaller pieces and do not
prevent grease from going down the drain. Commercial additives,
including detergents, that claim to dissolve grease may pass grease
down the line and cause problems in other areas.
The results
can be:
- Raw sewage overflowing in your home
or your neighbor's home, an expensive and unpleasant cleanup that
often must be paid for by you, the
homeowner;
- Raw sewage overflowing into parks,
yards, and streets;
- Potential contact with
disease-causing organisms; and
- An increase in operation and
maintenance costs for local sewer departments, which causes higher
sewer bills for customers
What we can do
to help?
The easiest way to solve the grease
problem and help prevent overflows of raw sewage is to keep this
material out of the sewer system in the first place.
There are several ways to do this:
- Never pour grease down sink drains
or into toilets.
- Scrape grease and food scraps from
trays, plates, pots, pans, utensils, and grills and cooking surfaces
into a can or the trash for disposal (or recycling where available).
- Do not put grease down garbage
disposals. Put baskets/strainers in sink drains to catch food scraps
and other solids, and empty the drain baskets/strainers into the
trash for disposal.
- Speak with your friends and
neighbors about the problem of grease in the sewer system and how to
keep it out. Call your local sewer system authority if you have any
questions. (from Water Environment Federation )
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